The Burning Bush Is Dropping Leaves Early

The burning bush is a large, slow-growing species of shrub that produces striking fall colors on its foliage and fruit. It grows well in full sun to nearly full shade. It tolerates air pollution and can adapt to a wide variety of soil types. Premature defoliation is likely attributable to pest infestation, disease or improper cultural conditions. Address symptoms quickly -- early leaf drop may predispose your burning bush to winter injury, pathogens and further insect injury.

Twospotted Spider Mite - The twospotted spider mite is a very destructive and pervasive pest of the burning bush. These tiny pests, which are difficult to see with the naked eye, feed on liquid chlorophyll extracted from the bottom of host plant leaves. Typically, leaves will display yellow spots before prematurely turning red, then brown, and falling off the burning bush. Spray infected plants with a strong stream of water. This will dislodge many mites and may effectively control small population outbreaks. Consider horticultural oils or miticidal soaps to manage more severe population outbreaks. Repeat and alternate product applications. Mites reproduce quickly and can develop a tolerance to frequently used insecticides.

Winged Euonymus Scale - Burning bush, while resistant to the common euonymus scale, is highly susceptible to winged euonymus scale. Scales feed on plant sap from stems and branches of the plant, causing premature leaf drop and branch die-back. Insecticidal soap and horticultural oil, as well as selective insecticides like Talstar or Tempo, can effectively fight this troublesome sucking pest. For best results, apply insecticides while the scale insect is most active during late May or early June.

Euonymus Caterpillar - The euonymus caterpillar is another possible cause of early leaf drop. The caterpillar feeds on burning bush foliage, typically starting at the plant tips and gradually moving inward. It leaves a fine, telltale web in its wake, which can totally engulf the plantin in severe cases. Remove webbing and caterpillars. Consider using a high-pressure sprayer combined with a conventional pesticide, like carbaryl, to eliminate large populations of the species.

Anthracnose - Burning bush is also prone to contracting the fungal disease anthracnose, particularly following extended periods of cool, wet weather. Initially, infected plants will display small brown spots on leaves. However, over time, considerable leaf loss may occur if shrubs are left untreated. Rake up and destroy all fallen leaves. Depending on the severity of the problem, periodic applications of fungicide may be necessary.

Cultural Conditions - Many pest and disease problems that cause premature defoliation are induced or exacerbated by improper care and maintenance. Do not allow roots to soak or dry out. The burning bush has a shallow root system that is easily damaged by extreme conditions in the soil. Also, while the burning bush tolerates a large range of soil pH, avoid highly alkaline soils, which can induce leaf chlorosis and drop.

References

University of Missouri Extension InfoNet: Mites on Burning Bush

Clemson University Cooperative Extension: Euonymus Diseases & Insect Pests

Iowa State University Extension: Extension News: Bugs on Burning Bush

University of Kentucky Department of Entomology: Spider Mites on Landscape Plants

University of Illinois Extension: Ask Extension: Burning Bush

Ohio State University: Euonymus Alatus

How to Kill Whipworms in Soil

Whipworms are parasitic worms that commonly prey upon dogs. Dogs with mild infections will often display few to no symptoms. More severe cases can cause diarrhea, weight loss and anemia. Complete eradication is difficult and requires multiple de-worming treatments. In addition, many heartworm medications are not effective treating whipworm, with the exception of Inceptor, Sentinel, Advantage Multi. The easiest way to prevent whipworm soil infection is to reduce potential yard exposure by promptly removing any feces from grass immediately following defecation. Really, it’s easy – just clean up after your dog.
Causes - Whipworm infection is caused by ingesting of the parasite’s eggs. Infection most often occurs when people/animal put dirt-covered hand or fingers in their mouth or when eating vegetables or fruits that are not sufficiently washed, peeled or cooked. Worms and their larvae will live in the intestine of their person or animal host. Adult worms lay eggs, which are further distributed in the feces of the infested host. Whipworms are found worldwide, but they really love warm, humid climates.
Treatment - Fertile female worms can produce about 2,000 eggs a day, which will remain viable in soils for years. The eggs, which have thick walls, are able to withstand heat and freezing. Overall, whipworms are very resistant to even extreme changes in their environment. Consequently, they are very hard to eradicate from soil. Here are a few suggestions:

• In small areas removal of the top few inches of topsoil can prevent future re-infections.
• Wash concrete surfaces with diluted chlorine bleach on a weekly basis.
• In large yard spaces, tilling the soil and treating with a strong drying agent, such as agricultural lime, will eliminate some eggs.
• Diatomaceous Earth (DE) may also help reduce whipworm infestations. Thoroughly distribute the substance over the infected area. Reapply monthly and after any hard rain storms. Use only food grade DE, which is non-toxic to people and animals.
• In extreme cases, soil removal and replacement with clean soil, pavement and gravel will be the most effective preventative soil treatments.

References:

Petshed.com: What Are Canine Whipworms?
Companion Animal Parasite Council: Frequently Asked Questions
Iowa State University: Whipworm Infection
Pet Education.com; Whipworms (Trichuris vulpis); Holly Nash

Classification of the Ginkgo Leaf

Ginkgo biloba trees have leaves unlike those of any other plant alive today. These fan-shaped leaves are, by far, the most identifiable feature of the tree - distinguishing the ginkgo from other gymnosperms. The term “biloba,” which literally means two lobes, comes from the two-lobed structure of the leaves. Despite the fact that it is a gymnosperm, the ginkgo leaf can be generically classified as a deciduous broad-leaf.

Description - Ginkgo leaves are simple, flat and fan-shaped. Leaves are most often bright green, but they may turn dark green with fertilization. The leaf surface is waxy and fairly smooth, except for its slightly raised veins. Leaves are wider than they are long and vary considerably in shape. The most typical form consists of two outward forked, partially separated lobes. Leaves are borne on short shoots. Ginkgo trees are deciduous. Leaves turn chartreuse to golden yellow before shedding from trees all at once. 

Taxonomy - Taxonomy is the science of naming and organizing species into similar groups, using the morphology of plants to distinguish them from one another. The plant kingdom is divided into broyophytes, which includes mosses, and vascular plants. Vascular plants are further divided into seedless Gymnosperms, such as the gingko, and seeded Angiosperms. Gymnosperms encompass about 500 species of conifers, 100 species of cycads, 64 species of Gnetales and one ginkgo.

Cycad and Conifer Associations-The ginkgo biloba is the only surviving member of the Ginkgoales order of plants and the only tree that exclusively occupies its own division, class, order, family and genus. Reproductively, ginkgo trees are most similar to cycads. Like the cycad, the ginkgo is a dioecious plant with divided seed coats and motile sperm. On the other hand, the growth pattern and vegetative morphology of ginkoes is most similar to that of conifers.

References:

Urban Forestry South Expo; Identification & Silvics of Ginkgo; Kim D. Coder; September 2003

University of Wisconsin BioWeb; Ginkgo biloba - The Maidenhair Tree; Brittany Lehrer; April 2011

University of Maryland Medical Center; Ginkgo biloba; Steven D. Ehrlich; March 2009

University of California Museum of Paleontology; Ginkgoales: Systematics

Are Herbicides Safe to Use on Strawberry Plants?

The use of herbicides can greatly increase overall plant yields.  Selective herbicides, when timed and applied correctly, are safe to use on existing strawberry plants. This form of herbicide will target only certain types of weeds, leaving strawberry fruit unharmed. Selective herbicides are an effective type of weed control; however, in order to effectively eradicate weeds, you must be able to correctly identify which weeds are present.  On the other hand, non-selective herbicides, such as Roundup, will kill weeds as well as crops. Non-selective herbicides should only be considered as a means of eliminating perennial weeds before crops are planted.

Be advised, herbicides are just one component of a good weed-management system. Heavy reliance on any one form of weed control is likely to encourage the development of resistant weeds. Continue to manually hoe and pull escape weeds, rotate crops and herbicides.

Preemergence vs. Postemergence Selective Herbicide Treatments - Preemergent herbicides are preventative weed treatments that should be applied before weed seedlings develop. Strawberry plants are grown in nearly every part of the United States, and specific types of preemergent treatments may vary regionally. Devrinol, Dathal and Sinbar are three of the more common brands. In general, preemergent herbicides are more effective treating annual weeds. Postemergent selective herbicides are applied after weeds emerge following crop planting. Similar to preemergent treatments, types of postemergent treatments may vary depending on the location of the planting. In general, this form of herbicide is better able to treat pesky, pervasive, perennial weeds. Select, Poast and  2,4-D, are three of the more familiar forms of postemergent strawberry herbicides.

Herbicide Timing and Considerations - Regardless of the method of weed removal, timely removal of weeds is essential to ensure the short- and long-term success of strawberry plantings. Avoid using herbicides while strawberry plants are in bloom, when fruit buds are forming and when runner plants are taking root. Also, limit use of herbicides on newly planted fields until the summer or fall of the first year of planting. Most commercial fields are fumigated at herbicidal rates prior to planting, so additional treatment is typically not necessary until this later date.

References:

Ohio State University: Weed Management in Strawberries
Washington State University Extension; Weed Control in Strawberry; Kassim Al-Khatib; September 1995
University of California Davis; Strawberry Integrated Weed Management; June 2008
North Dakota State University Extension Service; Questions on Strawberries; Ron Smith
Is There a Herbicide That Does Not Kill Strawberries?

Are My Figs Ripe?

Most fig trees produce two crops per year. The first crop, called the breba crop, is produced during the spring on the previous year’s growth. It is usually of little worth to growers because it tends to be very acidic. The second crop, known as the main crop, is borne on new plant growth. The fruit of this crop peaks from July, in the south, or August, in the north, until the first frost of the winter. Figs mature while on the tree. Do not harvest figs until you are certain they are ripe. At the same time, avoid leaving over-ripe fruit on the tree because this will invite disease and pest infestation.

Ripe or not - Figs should feel soft, like a ripe peach. They will hang limply on branches and will have a visibly bent neck form. Ripe figs easily detach when raised from their drooping position on the tree. They will be whatever color is typical for the variety. Of course, figs come in a lot of colors, so this varies. In addition, figs stems exude a milky sap if they are picked before they are ripe. Consequently, if this substance is secreted, the fig is not ready for harvest.

References:
University of Florida IFAS Extension; The Fig; Peter C. Andersen, et al., March 1994
Purdue University; Fig; Julia F. Morton; 1987
Washington State University Extension; When to Pick Tree Fruit; George Pinyuh; May 1998
When Are Fig Trees Ready to Harvest? Ehow; Christine McLachlan

How to Stop Oranges from Splitting

Fruit splitting is fairly common among citrus plants, particularity mandarin oranges. Typically, only a small percentage of fruit on affected trees will split. The exact cause is not known, but certain environmental and cultural stressors are known to contribute toward this annoying problem. Fortunately, it is not an indication of disease or pest infestation. Prevent fruit split from occurring by closely monitoring orange trees. Provide adequate fertilization and even watering, particularly if the weather is unseasonably hot during the fall season. Immediately remove or discard any split oranges from the tree and the ground. Split fruit breaks down rapidly. Decaying fruit will only attract disease, bacteria and unwanted pests. Split oranges are edible when ripe, but you will likely find that most split fruit will be green and useless.

Contributing Factors - Unseasonably warm temperatures combined with high humidity from September through November are highly associated with fruit splitting. It is believed that this sort of weather, when followed by relative dry periods, triggers splitting of some oranges. Essentially, drought-stressed orange trees start removing water from fruit to survive. If a lot of rain or irrigation follows drought, the previously removed water will return back from the roots to the fruit, but too quickly for appropriate processing. The rind of the dehydrated fruit may be unable to contain the intense water fluctuation - causing it to split.

Watering - Provide consistent irrigation during hot or windy weather to ensure that trees retain moisture in their roots. Certain orange trees, including young plants, dwarf varieties and trees planted in sandy or very porous soil, are less able to retain moisture in their roots. Consequently, these trees are especially susceptible to fruit splitting in the absence of adequate watering. Maintain consistently moist, but not soggy, soil under the orange tree canopy during hot weather.

Fertilization - Monitor fertilizer levels closely while fruit are on the tree. Depending on the cultivar, this can occur virtually any time during the year. While improper fertilization does not cause fruit splitting, low potassium levels can cause fruit peels to become thin and more prone to this phenomena. Check soil levels near orange trees for potassium if fruit splitting is observed and correct deficiencies. For best results, provide several small doses of fertilizer on a monthly basis during orange growing season.

References:
University of California Cooperative Extension Fresno County; Year-Round Gardening Questions Answered: Citrus Fruit Splitting
University of Florida IFAS Extension; Citrus Problems in the Home Landscape; Mongi Zekri, et al.; July 2010
University of California; Naval Orange Split; Pamela M. Giesel; 2001
University of California-Davis; Citrus Rind Splitting; October 2010
Why Do Lemons Split on the Tree

Are Apples Ready to be Picked?

Apples are deciduous, fruit-bearing trees, primarily grown in USDA hardiness zones 6 through 8. The most accurate way to determine whether apples are harvest-ready is to calculate number of days since pollination. Depending on cultivar, intended use and weather conditions, this varies between 135 and 180 days on average.  However, assuming you don’t know this information, there are many other indications that apples are ready to be picked. 

Time of Year – Apples ripen during the fall anywhere from early August to mid-November. Keep in mind that rainy conditions tend to delay maturation, while warm days with cool nights will speed maturation up.

Indicators - As apples mature, they grow rapidly in size and begin to produce a pleasant aroma. The base skin color of the fruit will transition from bright green to yellow. Ripe apples easily separate from the tree when lifted to a 90 degree angle and slightly twisted. Mature apples feel firm but not hard to the touch. The flesh of ripe apples is usually a creamy yellow and the seeds are black. Because apples mature on the tree they can be consumed immediately. Of course, if you are still in doubt concerning ripeness, you can always just take a bite. The flesh should taste juicy and delicious.

Postharvest –When properly stored, most apples, not including summer apples, will keep well for extended periods. Apples that ripen before Labor Day, also known as summer apples, store poorly and should be eaten within two weeks of picking. On the other hand, apples that ripen after Labor Day, called fall or winter apples, may be refrigerated for several months. Keeping fruit in plastic bags with holes helps avoid dehydration.

References:
Cornell University; Homegrown Apples in New York; Ian Merwin; October 2010
About Apple Trees: What Is an Apple Tree
University of Wisconsin Extension; Growing Apples in Wisconsin; Teryl R. Roper, et al.; 2006
Texas A&M AgriLife Extension: Apples

Growing Strawberries

Low-growing, perennial strawberry plants can be a colorful and rewarding addition to virtually any home garden. The most commonly grown strawberry plant, by commercial and home growers alike, is Fragaria x ananassa, also known as the garden strawberry. This desirable species of strawberry plant is a complex hybrid species that grows between 4 to 6 inches in height. Nearly all commercial strawberry growers use it in their farming operations. 

Plant Form – Strawberry plants consist of leaves, roots, a crown, runners and daughter plants. Plants spread by stolons, also known as runners.  Runners develop from axillary leaf buds, stretching the plant horizontally. The crown, also known as the mother plant, is where leaves and axillary buds are formed. Daughter plants form at every other node of the runners. Daughter plants are maintained by the runners until they form an independent root system. Once their roots are fully formed, the runners dry up, leaving a completely separate new clone plant. The sweet edible part of the strawberry is actually an accessory fruit, composed largely of swollen receptacle tissue. The real fruit are achenes, which are the small black dots that cover the outer surface. Strawberry fruit ripens anywhere from 20 to 50 days following pollination. When this occurs depends largely on where strawberries are planted. Strawberries grow practically everywhere in the United States, ranging from USDA hardiness zones 2 through 11. Strawberries generally fruit when night temperatures are greater than 50 degrees and day temperatures are less than 80 degrees.

Site Selection – Strawberries thrive in well-drained, sandy loam soil with a high degree of organic matter. The site should receive full sunlight at least 6 hours per day.  Ideally, the soil should have a very gradual slope for better drainage and a pH between 5.8 and 6.2.

Planting - Plants should be set with the middle of the crown level with the top of the soil. In Florida, strawberry plants are generally treated like an annual. New plants are planted ever growing season because of likely pest build-up. In more northern locations, strawberries will likely last around 3 years. Never plant strawberries after the beginning of August. The tender plants are likely to die from frost damage.

Harvest - Strawberries are tender fruit that bruise easily, so they are best hand-picked. Select only berries that are at least three-quarters red and allow the rest to remain in the plant to ripen. If berries are for immediate consumption, select only berries that are completely red. Keep in mind, berries will turn red after being picked, but they will not sweeten off the wine.  Remove any unripened berries to reduce pest infestation or disease outbreak.

References

University of Florida Okeechobee County Extension Service; Strawberry Gardening; Dan Culbert; Nov. 2004

University of Illinois Extension: Growing Strawberries

University of Minnesota Extension; Commercial Strawberry Production in Minnesota; Emily Hoover, et al.; 1990

Strawberry Plants.org: Strawberry Plant

Height of a Strawberry Plant; ehow

How to Identify a Sweetgum Tree

The sweetgum is a very adaptable, fast-growing, deciduous tree with dark green, star-shaped foliage. It is grown throughout USDA hardiness zones 6 through 9, and it will perform equally well in wet or dry soil. Here are just a few distinguishing characteristics that can be used to positively identify this somewhat under-appreciated shade tree.  

Tree Habit/Form – Sweetgum trees grow fairly tall. Mature trees typically grow between 60 to 80 feet tall and 40 to 60 feet in width; however, it is possible for sweetgums to reach 120 feet in height. When young, trees have a very symmetrical pyramidal tree from. The trunk is straight, upright and undivided. In general, side branches are small. With age, sweetgums become increasingly rounded in form as branches expand in diameter and become more dominant.

Buds and Corky projections – Look to trees terminal buds. Sweetgum terminal buds will be shiny, sticky and somewhat bulbous. Sometimes , but not always, sweetgums will have raised corky growth on branches. Corky projections are most often associated with particularly fast-growing trees within the species.

Leaves – The glossy green star-shaped leaves of the sweetgum are somewhat maple tree-like. Leaves are simple, alternately arranged, with 5 to 7 lobes. Leaves are approximately 4 to 8 inches in length. Leaves emit a distinct which hazel aroma when crushed. In the fall, sweetgums display vibrant color.

Fruit – Sweetgum have very distinctive spiky, spherical, brown fruit that is approximately 1 to 3 inches in diameter. Seeds within the fruit emerge through superficial openings. Sweetgum fruit first appears on the tree in a small, green form. As it matures, the fruit becomes hard, brown and woody. Sweetgums are best planted away from hard surfaces or parking lots, since the fruit can cause slip-and-falls.

References:

The Ohio State University: Liquidambar styraciflua    
"Landscape Plants for Subtropical Climates"; Bijan Deghan; 1998
University of Connecticut Plant Database: Liquidambar styraciflua
Virginia Technical Institute: Sweetgum  
Characteristics of Sweet Gum

Are Blackberries Self-Pollinated?

Blackberry shrubs are a trailing or upright plant – commonly cultivated for its tasty aggregate fruit. In terms of pollination, some blackberry plants are able to self-pollinate, while others require cross-pollination to set fruit. In general, trailing blackberries require cross-pollination while upright blackberries are able to self-pollinate. It should be noted that while some upright blackberries can self-pollinate, cross-pollinated blackberries tend to produce more fruit. Always try to plant at least two different types of blackberry cultivars with similar blooming times in close proximity to one another.

What is Pollination? Pollination is the transfer of pollen from the anther to the stigma of a flower.  Self-pollinated plants are able to transfer pollen from the anther to the stigma on itself or on a plant of the same cultivar. Cross-pollinated plants require a different plant species for pollen exchange. In the absence of other plant cultivars, fruit will not be produced. In addition, not only must there be other cultivars, but they must within 200 feet of one another, and they must have overlapping bloom times.

How are blackberries pollinated? Blackberries rely heavily on the wind and bees to transfer pollen. Because wild bees can be unreliable, commercial growers will often place bee hives near blackberry crops. Blackberries contain individual pistils within inflorescences, which form the drupelets of the aggregate fruit. A majority of the individual pistils need to be pollinated in order to produce a large, fully formed fruit. Once pollinated, blackberries require between 35 to 45 days on the plant to mature.

References:

University of Florida IFAS Extension; Growing Blackberries, Blueberries, Grapes, and Muscadines at Home; Collin W. Adcock; 2006

University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service; Blackberries - A Luscious Home Grown Treat; Gene McAvoy

University of Florida IFAS Extension; Blackberry and Raspberry; Peter C. Andersen et al.; April 2008

North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension Service; Growing Blackberries in North Carolina; Gina E. Fernandez et al.; March 2000

Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service; Pollination of Fruits and Nuts; B. Rosie Lerner et al.; December 2002

Do I Need Cross-Pollination For Blackberries; Christine McLachlan; March 2011

The Right Way to Grow Leyland Cypress

Leyland cypress are dense, attractive trees commonly used as specimen plants, formal hedges, screens, median plantings or Christmas trees. They are grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 6a through 10a. Leyland cypress grow in a variety of soil types, including clay and sandy soils. They are tolerant of sea spray and grow in coastal locations. They are also able to endure severe pruning and tree topping.

Challenges - Even in poor soils, Leyland cypress grow an amazing 3 to 4 feet a year when young and it’s entirely possible that they may obtain heights greater than 50 feet when fully grown. Leyland cypress must be trimmed regularly to manage their form and height, starting their first year in the ground. Fortunately, this cypress tolerates severe pruning, but keep in mind that trimming tall hedges tends to be difficult and expensive. Leyland cypress are relatively short lived - typically living less than 50 years. In addition, the species has a disproportionately shallow root system that may cause the tree to topple over in wet soil or strong winds. This fast-growing evergreen also tends to shade out surrounding vegetation. Leyland cypress are not recommended for residential landscape use because even when routinely trimmed, Leyland cypress grow too large.

Trimming- Trim Leyland cypress early and often in life - during dry weather to minimize disease occurrence. Trim just before or during the growing season to avoid extended periods of brown patches on the plant. During the first few years, before the desired height is reached, trim only long side shoots. As the cypress grows larger, begin to trim the top but maintain an inverted wedge form. This encourages proper light distribution from the base to the top of the plant. Leyland cypress may be trimmed as needed up to three times during a single summer growing season.

Spacing - Avoid planting Leyland cypress too close to one another. Specimen Leyland cypress look best when they are allowed to retain their natural, pyramidal shape. For a continuous hedge or screen, provide at least 10 feet between seedlings. The plants quickly grow together, creating an effective visual screen. Provide as much space as possible from surrounding vegetation and structures, taking into account the mature size of the tree when planting.

References:

University of Florida IFAS Extension; x Cupressocyparis leylandii: Leyland Cypress; Edward F. Gilman, et al.; December 2006

Royal Horticultural Society; Leyland Cypress: Pruning; December 2010

Clemson University Cooperative Extension; Leyland Cypress; Debbie Shaughnessy; November 2007

Ehow: Can You Trim a Leyland Cypress? Christine McLachlan; February 2011

Why Are There No Flowers on My Azalea?

It’s easy to understand the popularity of a plant like the azalea. Versatile, graceful and a profuse bloomer - azaleas have it all. Unless your azaleas stop blooming suddenly, which can be a major disappointment. There are several possible contributing factors that may be attributed to this lack of flowering. Most often it is a combination of not enough sunlight, bad weather and improper pruning or fertilization.

Sunlight - Azaleas perform best in filtered sunlight. However, do not over-shade. Azaleas placed in a location with too much shade will produce few to any flowers and will gradually grow increasingly leggy in form. Preferably, plant azaleas under trees with high crowns and widely spaced branches.

Weather - Too much cold weather, too little cold weather or unseasonable weather conditions can impact azalea blooming considerably. Here in the south, if temperatures do not stay at 50 degree Fahrenheit for at least four consecutive weeks azaleas may fail to bloom. This is known as the chilling requirement of azaleas. For this reason, azaleas should not be planted in south Florida or other locations where these temperatures are not met. On the other hand, in the north, cold weather can prevent azaleas from blooming by killing tender blooms on the plant before they have a chance to open. Unseasonably warm weather may cause azaleas to bloom too soon, often referred to a “bud blast”, only to be killed by later cold weather.

Pruning - While pruning is recommended to create and maintain a desirable form, be careful not to undertake this activity too late in the year. Next year’s flowers form in late summer to early fall. Prune azaleas just after they have finished flowering for the year, ideally no later than mid-June.
Fertilization - Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilizers, which spur leaf and branch growth but suppress blooming. If necessary, fertilize azaleas during the spring or fall using small amounts of granular, slow-release fertilizer. In general, apply a phosphorus-rich formula to increase flower production.

References:
Azalea Society of America; Azalea Questions; May 2008
University of Florida IFAS Extension; Azaleas for Florida; Dewayne L. Ingram et al.; October 2003
The United States National Arboretum; Azalea Questions and Answers; April 2009
Osceola County Extension Service; Azaleas Need Care; Jennifer Welshans; June 2005
What Would Cause My Azaleas Not to Bloom?; Christine McLachlan; March 2011

Judas Tree and Eastern Redbud - Same Thing?

Not exactly, although the two ornamental landscape trees are close, but geographically distant, cousins in the plant world. The Judas Tree (Cercis siliquastrum) is also called the Mediterranean redbud. It takes its name from its native habitat, where it is common. The Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) is somewhat more hardy native to the United States. They both serve similar decorative landscape functions within their respective regions.
Plant Description - The Judas tree grows up to 36 feet in height and 30 feet in diameter. It is a single-stemmed, slender tree. The Judas tree produces early spring flowers 3 to 5 inches in length. New leaves are reddish purple in color. The Judas tree is prized for its showy buds and bright rose-colored flowers that will appear before leaves in the spring. Its heart-shaped leaves and dark-colored bark also also atttactive.
Site Requirements - The Judas tree is an eastern Mediterranean native that tolerates a wide range of soil, with the exception of wet, clay soil. Above all else, it thrives in moist, fertile, well-drained soil. The Judas tree prefers partial shade to full sunlight and can withstand temperatures as low as 5 degrees Fahrenheit.

References:
Notulae Botanicae Horti Agrobotanici; The Effects of Different Acid Treatment and Stratification Duration on Germination of Cercis siliquastrum L. Seeds; Murat Zencirkiran et al.; February 2009
African Journal of Agricultural Research; Some engineering properties of Cercis siliquastrum
Natural History Museum; Cercis siliquastrum (Judas tree); Fred Rumsey
What Is A Judas Tree; Christine Mclachlan; March 2011

The World’s Largest Blueberry

The Chandler blueberry bush is a large, attractive shrub that is probably best known for producing the world’s largest blueberry. Blueberries on this plant are between 1/4 inch and 1 inch in diameter. Fruit on mature plants is about the size of a quarter. Chandler blueberry plants also have the longest ripening season of any blueberry cultivar, providing 6 weeks of juicy, delicious fruit during the late summer. The Chandler blueberry is highly pest- and disease-resistant and self-pollinating.These vigorous, upright bushes grow 5-7 feet tall and provide consistently high yields within US Hardiness Zones 4-9.

Site Selection - Chandler blueberries require acid soil, ideally with a pH between 4.2 and 5.2. Place in full sunlight for optimal fruit production. While Chandler blueberries are self-pollinating, cross-pollination tends to produce higher fruit yields. Place at least two different varieties, with similar bloom times, in close proximity to one another.

Pruning - Pruning limits the plant size and encourages a good balance of fruit and vegetative growth.Prune the Chandler blueberry bush annually in the winter beginning the third year after planting.  Remove about a quarter of the oldest branches, called canes, during each pruning session.

References:
The Size of a Chandler Blueberry Bush; Christine McLachlan; February 2011Mississippi State University; Establishment and Maintenance of Blueberries; John H. Braswell; 2009
University of Florida IFAS; Blueberry Gardener's Guide; Jeff Williamson and Paul Lyrene; April 2004
University of Connecticut Plant Database: Vaccinium corymbosum

What To Do With An Orange Tree During A Freeze

Orange trees are able to grow in USDA Hardiness Zones 9-11. However, if planting within zone 9a, select a cold-hardy variety of orange tree, such as the sweet or naval orange, or an early ripening variety, such as the Hamlin or Marra orange. If possible provide the tree with a southwestern exposure and be prepared to extend occasional protection from cold weather if temperature fall below 28 degrees Fahrenheit for more than 4 hours (this is technically a hard freeze). Protect orange trees from frost by trapping heat from the ground. Ideally, the entire tree should be covered with a blanket or cloth. If the tree is too large to cover, securely wrap the trunk of the orange tree with blankets from the ground to the first main branching. Remove all mulch from the surrounding area - bare dirt radiates more heat. In fact, while we are on the topic of mulch, don’t ever use it around citrus trees. Period. Citrus trees are prone to foot rot, which causes peeling bark and rot rot. Mulch only exacerbates this problem.

Damage - During a frost ice crystals will form on the tree and the fruit. Severely frost damaged woody parts of the plant will appear dark-brown in color and water soaked. Young trees can die from this - but, fortunately, mature trees rarely do. Any fruit on the tree will become damaged as well. Ice crystals actually form within the orange peel, which will cause the fruit top dry out. Oranges immediately removed from the tree can be squeezed for juice or eaten. If left on the tree, the fruit will deteriorate within a couple of weeks. 

References:
University of California: Frost Protection for Citrus and Other Tropicals
University of Florida IFAS Solutions for Your Life: Fruit Crops

Red Fern Alternatives

The red fern plant, made popular by the American literary classic “Where the Red Fern Grows,” is a mythical plant that does not actually exist. The author, Wilson Rawls, explains that the title of the book is taken from a Native American legend. According to the legend, long ago a boy and girl froze to death in a blizzard. Months later, their bodies were discovered. In between their bodies grew a red fern. The legend states the significance of the red fern, which is - red ferns never die, they can only be planted by an angel and their presence makes a spot holy. The story of the book is pretty much unrelated, but what’s pertinent to this article is that at the end of the book, the main character goes to the spot where his dogs are buried and discovers a red fern growing between their graves. The fern’s presence gives him the strength to move on and begin to heal. Since the publishing of the book, many people have sought out red ferns to plant at graves, or as to give as gifts to those who have lost a beloved pet. There are ferns that have red stems, veins or ferns that are generally reddish in color that may be used to represent a red fern plant.

Red Fronds - The Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) has fronds that appear red in color when young. In addition, it turns red seasonally. The best color is displayed in the spring and fall. The mahogany fern (Didymochlaena truncatula) also produces reddish mahogany colored new growth that turns green with age.

Red Stems and Veins - Ferns belonging to the genus Athyrium display pleasing colors and offer delicate foliage. Some of the more popular and readily-available species include the Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum), eared lady fern (Athyrium otophorum) and the red-stemmed lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina). Each have dramatic maroon-red stems and veins.

References:

Where the Red Fern Grows; Wilson Rawls; 1961

What Is a Red Fern Plant?
University of Florida IFAS Extension; Dryopteris erythrosora Autumn Fern, Japanese Shield Fern; Edward F. Gilman; June 2007

Why Are All the Ash Trees Dying?

Ash trees are temperate and subtropical trees found in cities, suburbs and natural forests throughout the Unites States. They are characterized by opposite branching, oar-shaped fruit, and compound leaves. Of the 8 billion ash trees in North America, which comprise 16 different species, all are at risk from the destructive beetle known as the emerald ash borer. Nationwide, millions trees have all ready died.

The emerald ash borer is an invasive beetle from Asia. The borer is able to destroy tree tissue undetected under tree bark. Eventually, the canopy of an infected tree thins out and dies back. The root system is deprived of nutrients, and the tree starves. Trees die within 4 years of first diagnosis. There are no disease resistant species and there is no cure once trees are infected. Emerald ash borers are able to fly up to a half mile from infected ash nursery trees, logs or firewood.

Note: Symptoms of emerald ash borer are quite similar to ash yellowing, which is an incurable disease cause by a phytoplasma and spread by phloem-feeding insects. If you suspect your ash tree is infected with either contact a tree specialist immediately for a proper lab diagnosis.

　

References:

Emerald Ash Borer; Frequently Asked Questions; Deborah McCullough, et al.; February 2011

The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station; Ash (Fraxinus) Plant Health Problems; April 2007

University of Florida IFAS; Fraxinus Americana, White Ash; Edward F. Gilman, et al.; December 2006

 Can Ash Trees Get Dutch Elm Disease?

　

　

　

Brazilian Pepper - Good For Nothing?

Not exactly. I'm certainly not a fan of the plant, so let me explain. Brazilian pepper is a highly invasive, aggressive and prolific shrub that is found in subtropic regions around the world. Here in the United States it is found in Florida, Texas, California, Hawaii, Louisiana and the commonwealth of Puerto Rico. It is a relative of the poison ivy. It causes severe skin irritation, sinus and nasal congestion, sneezing, eye irritation and headaches. There are reported deaths of birds and grazing livestock following consumption of the leaves and fruit.

 

Environmental Impact (why everyone hates it) -The Brazilian pepper is a disturbed site pioneer - this includes rights-of-way for roads, powerlines and canals. Once established, it will quickly invade adjacent land, while at the same time displacing native plants. Its establishment success has resulted in expansive areas of Brazilian pepper mono-cultures, completely lacking any form of plant and animal biodiversity. A large part of the Florida Everglades is threatened by the species.

Possible Uses (using lemons to make lemonade) - Brazilian peppers are not desirable plants. The state of Florida has a management plan in place that seeks to eradicate the species. However, there are some uses for the destroyed plants. The wood quality of these shrubs is poor; however, it can be used to make small products such as fence posts, toothpicks, and organic mulch (from male plants only). In addition, despite its toxic properties, the Brazilian pepper is a notable source of nectar and pollen for bees in Hawaii and Florida. From it, local bees produce a vaguely peppery tasting low-grade honey.

References:

Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council; Brazilian Pepper Management Plan; Recommendations from the Brazilian Peppertree Task Force; J.P Cuda, et al.; April 2006

University of Florida IFAS Extension; Brazilian Pepper-tree Control; Ken Gioeli, et al.; February 2009
Are Brazilian Pepper Trees Toxic?

Do Fig Trees Need Wasps?

There are four types of figs: Caprifigs, Smyrna, San Pedro and common types. Each type has a distinct method of pollination. Without pollination, fig blooms will not develop. Caprifigs produce inedible fruit and are only used as a pollen source. Smyrna and San Pedro fig trees require the pollen of the Caprifig and the presence of fig wasps to bloom. In the case of both of these species, only the tiny fig wasp is able penetrate the enclosed inflorescence and propagate the fig. In turn, these wasps require the fig as a breeding space - they can actually breed no where else. Each species is completely dependent on the other for survival. Self-pollinating common fig trees do not require Caprifigs or fig wasps to bloom. Common figs cultivars, with a closed ostiole, are recommended for residential use.

References:
University of Florida IFAS Extension: The Fig; Peter C. Andersen and Timothy E. Crocker, March 1994
Purdue University: Fig; Julia F. Morton; 1987
Why My Fig Tree Doesn't Bloom

The Lovely and Functional Vomit Tree

Ginkgo trees are large, extremely hardy, adaptable, canopy trees. Ginkgo trees are literally millions of years old. Over time they have adapted to survive in even the worst urban conditions. Air pollution, compact soil, no problem. Because of this, ginkgo trees have frequently been used to landscape urban streets. They are attractive, disease-resistant, drought-tolerant trees with a long life-span.

On the medical front, ginkgo biloba supplements have been commercially available for many years. In general, these supplements, derived from ginkgo leaf extracts, are marketed as pharmaceutical memory enhancements. The effectiveness of ginkgo supplements is controversial and clinical studies are ongoing to determine their effectiveness. Ginkgo trees also have culinary value. Seed kernals of the female ginkgo tree are commonly served in China and Japan.

There’s just one problem. The seed coat of ginkgo tree fruit, which contains butyric acid, a chemical found in vomit, emits a rancid vomit-like odor if the fruit is left to rot. This tree has earned its nickname - the vomit tree. It is possible to manage the smell. Just clean and dispose of any fallen ginkgo fruit as soon as possible. Ginkgo fruit will not smell unless it is given the opportunity to rot. Aside from being smelly, the fruit of ginkgo trees is slippery and can present a slip and fall hazard to pedestrians.

If only female trees produce fruit why not not just plant male trees? Ginkgo trees are gender-specific plants. Only female trees produce stinky berries. Unless the tree is one of the all-male cultivars of ginkgo trees, the only accurate way to distinguish male and female species of the common gingko is to examine the fruit of the mature tree. Until maturity male and female plants are indistinguishable from one another. Ginkgo trees can take more than 20 years to reach maturity. But I did say there were all male cultivars. The following cultivars consist entirely of male plants: Autumn Gold, Lakeview, Princeton, Sentry and Fastigiata. Grafting portions of confirmed male with a seedling rootstock is a possible alternative for preventing future smell.

It’s probably obvious - I like ginkgo trees, just be careful when you go to purchase one, gender matters.

References:

Why Do Ginkgo Berries Stink?

University of Florida IFAS Extension: Ginkgo biloba, Maidenhair Tree

University of California Museum of Palentology: Introduction to the Ginkgoales

　

　

　

When is the Harvest Season for Walnut Trees?

For those of you lucky enough to have one of these trees, congratulations. Commercially these are one of the most valuable trees available if you consider the value of the wood and the nuts they produce. Harvest time for walnut trees is September through October. However, as a dooryard fruit, most walnut trees will not produce a crop every year. Outside of commercial production, alternate bearing years are common. This means the trees tend to over-produce one year and produce little to nothing the next. Also, remember these are large trees that take a while to mature. Wait at least 10 years after planting before expecting any nuts.

What to look for - During the spring small inconspicuous flowers will appear on the tree. From these flowers a green husk, which contains a developing nut, will emerge. These husks will get bigger throughout the summer until harvest time. During September or October the nuts will fall from the tree, breaking the husk with their fall. The husk can irritate and discolor skin, so make sure you wear gloves when you harvest the nuts!

References:

University of Missouri Center Center for Agroforestry: Growing Black Walnut for Nut Production; William Reid, Mark Coggeshall, H.E. Garrett, Jerry Van Sambeek; September 2009
Purdue University: Eastern Black Walnut: Potential for Commercial Nut Producing Cultivars; William Reid; August 1997

How Often Do Walnut Trees Get Nuts on Them?

Pecan Tree Irrigation Needs

Pecan trees are large, deciduous, nut-producing trees. The fact that these trees are native to the Mississippi should give you a clue about their water requirements. Although pecans establish deep roots, the majority of water for nut production comes from the top two feet of the soil, which is easily accessible. Pecan trees need a lot of water. Inadequate watering will stress them. Leaves will prematurely drop and poor quality nuts will result.

When and how much water -Watering needs peak annually in the fall during nut production. Mature pecans require consistent watering, in the range of 200 gallons a day per tree. During late summer to early fall, increase this amount to at least 300 gallons per day. In particular, the first two weeks of September are considered to be the critical watering period for pecans. It is not unusual for sprinklers to run around the clock on commercial pecans farms during this time.

References:

University of Florida IFAS Extension: The Pecan Tree; P.C. Andersen and T. E. Crocker; May 2004
University of Georgia College of Agricultural & Environmental Sciences: Cultural Management of Commercial Pecan Orchards; Lenny Wells and Kerry A. Harrison; Jan. 21, 2010
How Much Water Does a Large Pecan Need for Survival?

What’s so great about oak trees?

I’ve lived in Florida 25 years. Despite all the lovely tropical plants we have here, oak trees remain one of my favorite trees. There are many reasons for this. Oak trees are all-around great landscape trees. Aesthetically, they tend to be large, wide-spreading trees with impressive canopies. Many are evergreen - which means no leaves to rake up.They are found in all parts of the state. Several types are Florida natives. And did I mention their ability to grow quickly, which produces incredibly valuable shade? In general, oaks are durable trees. They provide food and habitat to wildlife. And just like your standard Floridian, oak trees are able to flourish despite harsh aspects of our environment, including the heat islands, soil compaction, urban pollution, and even salt.

References:

University of Florida IFAS Extension: Common Oaks of Florida
Why Plant Oak Trees in Florida?

Banana Plant Propagation

Banana plants naturally propagate via an offshoot of the banana plant called a sucker. Suckers derive from underground rhizomes, so this method of reproduction is called rhizome propagation. It takes approximately nine months for a sucker to fully develop and produce a stalk of bananas, after which it dies. Banana plants produce a lot of suckers. The presence of too many suckers is not beneficial and can result in low-quality bananas and disease. Regardless of whether you are interested in propagation, banana plants must be actively pruned of suckers on a regular basis. Leave anywhere from three to five suckers at a time around the plant to replace the original plant.

Rhizome Propagation - Using a spade, dig a generous hole around a large sucker, including as much as the root structure as possible. Next, remove all large leaves from the top of the sucker. Then replant the sucker, in a hole approximately 3 feet wide by 2 feet deep with lots of moist, organic material. Space further if you are planting near the original banana plant to allow for future growth. For best results, separate and transplant suckers during warm summer months immediately preceeding rain.

Tissue Culture Propagation - Tissue culture propagation is an alternate form of propagation, which is used in some commercial banana farms. As the name suggests, new banana plants are grown from meristems using tissue cultures. This method successfully eliminates disease transmission and ensures healthy, uniform, nematode-free banana plants. Tissue culture propagation is considerably more time-consuming and expensive than rhizome propagation.

References:

Can I Propagate a Banana Plant Through a Leaf Cutting?
University of Florida IFAS Extension: Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
California Rare Fruit Growers: Banana

Will a Coconut Palm Grow in the Desert?

Coconut palms are popular, tropical plants that are well-suited for USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11. Coconut palms, however, do not thrive in areas with low annual rainfall or extreme temperature fluctuations. Consequently, a coconut palm should not be planted in the desert.

Temperature Requirements - Coconut palms are not cold tolerant. They prefer year-round temperatures should average 70 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer. Temperatures under 32 F will almost certainly injure the palms. Prolonged cold periods or a series of sudden weather shifts may severely injure the palm. Deserts are characterized by sudden shifts in the weather. Large fluctuations frequently occur between day and night.

Rainfall Requirements - Everyone knows deserts do not receive much rain. The rain that does fall tends to occur exclusively in short bouts one or two times a year. Coconut palms require at least 40 inches of evenly distributed rainfall year-round for sustained growth. The amount and distribution pattern of rain in the desert is clearly not in line with the growing requirements of a coconut palm.

References:

Can Coconut Palm Trees Grow in Arizona?

University of Florida: The Coconut Palm in Florida

"Landscape Plants for Subtropical Climates;" Bijan Dehgan; 1998.

Foxtail Fern Blooms

Foxtail ferns (Protasparagus densiflorus cv. 'Myersii') are fern-like members of the lily family. They are prized for their radiating light green cylindrical foliage that tapers at the end - pretty much like a fox tail. And, yes, foxtail ferns, do bloom. However, these blooms are neither impressive nor consistent. In fact, most plants do not bloom on an annual basis. Foxtail fern blooms consist of small white or light pink inconspicuous flowers. These blooms are small and short-lived. Foxtail ferns bloom only during summer months. Once the flowers fall off, they are replaced by attractive, large red berries, which are a small wildlife favorite.

References:

Do Foxtail Ferns Bloom?
Texas A&M University AgriLife Extension Service: Asparagus Ferns
Floridata: Protasparagus densiflorus

Tips for Growing Coffee

So you want to grow some coffee. Here is some of the basic information you will need to know.

Soil - Coffee trees will tolerate a wide range soil pH, though lightly acidic soil is ideal. Soil must be well-drained and amended with organic materials. Coffee trees love rich and porous soil. Soil of volcanic origin (like in Hawaii) is preferred. Coffee trees are not salt tolerant.

Irrigation - Coffee trees have shallow roots. They will not tolerate standing water or drought. Water your coffee trees consistently throughout the year, but cut back during the coldest two months of the year to promote flowering.

Fertilization - Fertilize coffee trees with a dry mix of nitrogen, phosphate and magnesium during the warmest months of the year. Ideally, trees should be fertilized three to four times annually.

Culture - Coffee trees are tropical, understory plants that prefer light shade and high humidity. While coffee trees are associated with mountain-side growth, they can actually grow at any elevation.

References:
University of Florida: Coffee Growing in the Florida Home Landscape

"Landscape Plants for Subtropical Climates;" Bijan Dehgan; 1998
What Soil Type Is Needed for a Coffee Tree?

What’s Wrong With My Bougainvillea?

Bougainvilleas are tropical-looking spreading plants that produce colorful blooms all seasons of the year. While bougainvilleas are not particularly prone to pests infestation or disease, they can become infected and die. Maintain your bougainvillea properly and address issues as they come about and your plant should be okay - but here are a few problems you might encounter along the way.

Culture - Bougainvilleas grow in USDA hardiness zones 9 to11; however, a majority of the species are confined to only the warmest zones. They do not tolerate frost. Frost can cause portions of the plant, or the entire plant, to wither and turn black. Select a species well-adapted to your particular USDA hardiness zones. Prune away any frost damaged portions of your bougainvillea once the weather improves.

Bougainvilleas are heat and drought-tolerant. In fact, too much water will cause leaf drop and/or root rot. Place your bougainvillea in well-drained soil. Do not over-water or over-fertilize your bougainvilleas. This may result in a mineral imbalance. The first indication of a mineral imbalance is a decline in foliage and blooms.

Pests - As with just about any kind of plant, pests can inflict a lot of damage if not controlled. Given the opportunity, the following types of pests may prey upon your plant: caterpillars, aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, snails, slugs, mites, whiteflies and thripes. All pests leave slightly different indications of infestation - most will not kill your plant.

References:

Why Is My Bougainvillea Dying?

University of California: Bougainvillea --- Bougainvillea spp.
University of Florida Extension: Warm Climate Production Guidelines for Bougainvillea

The Best Soil for Gardenias

Gardenias are attractive plants with glossy, dark green foliage.  They are best known for their white flowers blooms, which give off a distinctive, pleasing scent.  They can be used in a variety of ways within the landscape - serving equally well as a specimen plant or a hedge.  Start your gardenias off right with high-quality soil.

Soil pH - Like many flowering plants, gardenias prefer acidic soil. Ideally, the soil should be in the pH range of 5 to 6.5.  If you’re not sure about the pH of the soil in your yard, get it tested.  If possible, place gardenias away from walkways, foundations or other forms of concrete, which tend to neutralize soil pH. 

Soil Amendments and Fertilizer- Consider adding sand, soil conditioners, peat moss and organic matter to your soil to improve aeration and drainage of your soil. Gardenias respond particularly well to soil amended with peat moss and compost.  Gardenias tend to bloom most prolifically during the spring.  Apply acid-loving granular fertilizer during warm weather months every two to four weeks to encourage flower production. 

References:

University of Florida IFAS Extension: Growing Gardenias in Florida

"Florida Landscape Plants"; John V. Watkins and Thomas J. Sheehan; 1986

Potting Soil for Gardenias

What is Crabgrass?

Crabgrass is a warm season annual weed. It flourishes in direct sunlight on disturbed sites and agricultural areas. Smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum) is often found in residential and commercial areas mixed with turf. Like most weeds, it is opportunistic and it will take over your lawn - if you let it. Identification

Crabgrass is most visible during summer months. Crabgrass gets its name from the way stems grow and extend from the roots, like crab legs. Crabgrass grows in light green clumps close to the ground. Despite its distinctive growth pattern and color, it is commonly incorrectly identified.  For many, the name crabgrass is simply synonymous with the word weed.

Management: During cold weather, visible shoots will die - but not before the plant has produced seeds to ensure the long-term survival of the species.  In the spring, apply a pre-emergent herbicide formulated to fight crabgrass to your yard. Focus on areas of previous crabgrass infestation to discourage new seasonal growth.

In place of the crabgrass, install plugs or sod that is well-adapted to your area. Do not allow bare spots to remain or crabgrass will quickly re-invade.  Crabgrass thrives in sunny areas that receive shallow irrigation.  Irrigate your lawn less frequently but deeply to encourage the establishment of grass roots. Allow your grass to grow a little higher during the summer to shade out crabgrass seeds. In the long term, the best way to stop crabgrass is to replace it with properly maintained, healthy and vigorous grass.

References:
Is Crabgrass Bad?
American Lawns: Crabgrass
The Scotts Miracle-Gro Company: Crabgrass

How to Protect Your Palms Before and After a Frost

Every year countless palms and other tropical plant species are harmed or killed by sudden frosts. Don’t just assume your palms are dead, however. Take immediate action to prevent further injury but give it a few months before assuming a death verdict. It is possible that your trees may ultimately rebound into health.

What to do immediately: Apply a fungicide containing copper to the frost-damaged fronds as well as to the bud of the palms. Reapply the solution in two weeks. Do not apply again following this treatment, or you may actually further damage the palms.

After the weather gets warm: When the weather is consistently warm again, trim off all brown palm fronds. You will know if the palms are dead or severely damaged if the new growth is brown, easily breaks, or if the crown of the palms collapse. If the palm trees are dead, they should be removed from your yard.

Future Protection from Damage: Palms should be regularly fertilized. Cold temperatures can weaken the health of palm trees, making them more susceptible to pests and disease. Apply a granular palm fertilizer three or four times a year to promote the health of your palms. Ultimately, healthy, well-established palms withstand frost better than unhealthy and/or young palms.

Other tips: Always select palms that are appropriate for the climate where you live - resist the temptation to go too tropical. If you have advance warning of a frost, cover the trunks of your tall palms with blankets or burlap to protect from damage. Short palms can be completely covered with weighted blankets.

Resources:

My Palm Trees Are Dead After a Florida Frost

University of Florida IFAS Extension: Treating Cold-Damaged Palms